This is the case that most vintage Submariner fans are probably familiar with and it was used for the bulk of the Submariner's production in the 1970s and '80s. This might seem like common sense; however, there are nine different 5513 matte dials produced between 1966 and 1984, and because the same 1520 movement was used, it's not uncommon to find a dial from the late 70s having replaced the original dial from a watch from the mid '60s. It was consigned by the original owner who bought the watch new in 1962 in Knightsbridge and wore it during his service as a police officer in London. By Danny Milton. Everything from the cases to the bezels to the styles of printing on the gilt dials is nearly identical. Additionally, the lume plot in the white seconds hand is a bit smaller this time around. For a company logo, it sure did change and vary a lot over the middle part of the 20th century. In-Depth Everything You Need To Know About The Rolex Explorer Ref. In this case, they don't call it the Explorer for nothing and the model can trace its roots back to the earliest days of post-war adventure and the birth of the modern sport watch. This is the quintessential Explorer reference. Plus, let's be honest, Rolex doesn't care about what I say on the matter anyway. This was my first year at HODINKEE, and what a year it was. But, as with all things vintage Rolex, there are some exceptions. After mastering the wrist watch model, waterproof casings, and self-winding mechanisms, Hans Wildorf released the Rolex Explorer in 1953 to commemorate the first successful climbing expedition to the peak of Mount Everest – the highest mountain in the world. Anyone interested in trading a full set 16570 Explorer II Polar or a 14060M 4 liner Submariner for an unworn Hodinkee 10th Anniversary Speedmaster? But this is a very different watch in many ways. It's funny that we've gotten to a point in vintage Rolex collecting that we consider this a "normal" or "standard" watch, considering that such examples were only made for a few years and that most were worn hard and without a hint of preciousness. The case on the 6200 is a bit thicker and broader than those found on earlier models too. Before the new 216570 Explorer II arrived on the scene in 2011, there were … Dieser Pinnwand folgen 4403 Nutzer auf Pinterest. Also well-loved in the collector community for the Explorer are white dial or "Albino" 1016s. The no-hash bezel is also still present, but the hands have started to evolve – we've got a set of Mercedes hands with a shorter hour hand and a bright white seconds hand that was supposed to increase legibility. Rolex 216570 Explorer II 42MM $ 10,995.00. You've got a packed four-line signature at six o'clock and the date sitting under the Cyclops at three o'clock. As you'd expect though, we had to set some boundaries for ourselves: We are only covering vintage Submariners here, starting with the first proper 1953 Submariner and working our way up through the last of the classic ref. The first is the bezel, which transitioned from a red triangle bezel to a silver triangle bezel (always with the hashes though). Rolex Submariner. The most popular Rolex Explorer wearer was the great Sir Edmund Hillary, who was famously wearing his Rolex Explorer when he climbed Mount Everest in 1953 and who’s Rolex Explorer is currently on display at a museum in Zurich. After realizing that the square crown guards could be refined, Rolex reshaped them to what collectors today call "eagle beak" crown guards because of how they taper down to their final point. The Rolex Explorer II (1978) and The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (1988) were also released to international waiting lists securing Rolex as one of the worlds most prestigious watch brands. The two watches are technically identical, and some feature COMEX logos on the dials while other are seemingly normal. One other thing to look out for is the texture of the non-honeycomb dials – despite being from the age of glossy, gilt dials, these 6204 dials tend to get a matte, mottled finish. There are two other types of vintage COMEX Submariners that fall under the references 5513 and 5514, the latter being a special reference reserved exclusively for COMEX-issued watches. Often flying under the radar, the Rolex Explorer is the most understated of Rolex’s various sports watches. dem Heritage Chronograph, der Black Bay, der Pelagos, die Heritage Advisor, und der Ranger. The Rolex Explorer, through the decades It was a case of shock and awe on the Rolex stand at 2010’s BaselWorld when the brand announced that the beloved Explorer model had been revamped. 11.03.2020 - Erkunde Thomas Wankas Pinnwand „Rolex Ads“ auf Pinterest. Rolex traces its roots to 1905, when a company called “Wilsdorf and Davis” was founded in London, England. It's not the only answer, but it's one that I find tough to argue with. Showing 10–10 of 10 results. It is the second generation 39mm Explorer after the first generation was introduced in 2010. Now, if you're like me, you're probably wondering if someone could just take a square crown guards 5512 today and shave it down to this shape if they wanted to replicated the effect. Now about those distinguishing features. They're much longer than what you'll see in a bit on 5512s and 5513s, with the shaft between the central point of the dial and the Mercedes part of the hour hand being longer and the minute hand reaching all the way out to the chapter ring. 2) I often see new collectors buying gilt 5512 and 5513 Submariners that are in poor condition (sometimes with disclosed or undisclosed restoration) for what they see as a value purchase, when they would be better off buying an excellent example of a matte dial 5512 or 5513 for a similar amount. Each Rolex model – Submariner, GMT Master, Explorer II, etc. Yes, these included important innovations like the waterproof Oyster case and the so-called "perpetual" automatic movements, but they weren't proper sport watches as we'd recognize them today. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points This is the reference that would establish the general and enduring aesthetic of the Explorer, with a black dial, gilt markings, a 36mm case, and 50 meters water resistance. While this is the same reference as the watch directly above, it's starting to look a lot more like Submariners that you see all over. It's the golden age of Rolex's sport watch design distilled down to the point of being the foundation for so much of what they are known for, both aesthetically and as a brand. Pada jamannya jam tangan diciptakan sebagai alat untuk membantu sebuah pekerjaan contohnya Rolex Explorer diciptakan untuk para penjelajah. Generally dated to 1965 or 1966, Ben highlighted the Space Dweller in his collecting feature for HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 3, saying, "This watch is so remarkably simple, but equally special and rare – estimates range from as few as five correct examples to at most 30 – with a small percentage seen publicly. 5512 Submariner. While I've used numerous terms like "simple" or "minimal" in describing the Explorer, don’t for a second think that I mean basic or underdeveloped. Coming in a bit over the Explorer at $7,560, the Polaris has a smaller power reserve, but you can see the in-house 898E/1 JLC caliber via an included display case back. We even offer free shipping and returns, and a complimentary extended year warranty on all watches, so you can be confident you’ll be happy with your … You'll also notice that the gilt dial is much more sparse and that instead of the Mercedes hand set we have extremely slim pencil-shaped hands and a seconds hand with a small lollipop at the tip. Zudem sind sie oft sehr lang. Made for over a decade, there are dozens of variations within this one family of watches alone. For a lot of people, this is the Rolex Submariner. Now things start to get really wild. The dial is a rich black and the updated handset offers a proportionally appropriate fit for the larger case sizing. So if you're looking to buy one for yourself, going through a trusted source and looking for one with a proper paper trail is essential. Rolex Explorer adalah salah satu jam tangan yang paling underrated dari line up sport watch Rolex, tetapi ini tidak mengurangi prestasi utamanya sebagai jam tangan yang luar biasa. This watch has the slimmer 100m-water-resistant case and crown, while evolving the design language of the 6536/1. These extra two lines of text were the main way that you could tell the two references apart from one another going forward. Tim Mosso (WatchBox Studios)zeigt zwar viele Uhren, mir ist die Präsentation aber zu "amerikanisch" – das ist irgendwie so ein News-Show-Stil geworden, der mir irgendwie nicht behagt. This watch still has a case with pointed crown guards, by the way, though it's among the last 5513 to feature them. This 5513 has a special version of a gilt dial with an "underline" printed just below the depth rating and "Submariner" signature at six o'clock. The final generations of 5512s displayed two substantial changes from their predecessors – though substantial is, of course, a relative term here. While the Explorer has been in production since 1953, it took a few years for Rolex to land on the core design that we know today. However, the reference 5512 would end up being produced continuously for over 20 years, from 1959 through 1980, and there are dozens of variations (more if you ask some collectors). If you're going to bandy about the term "iconic" the Explorer has undoubtedly earned its place on that list and it exemplifies the core of competency, design, and watchmaking that has made Rolex into the brand it is today. It's thought that these might have been made by shaving down cases with square crown guards, allowing Rolex to quickly change what they were doing without requiring a whole new manufacturing process. The thought is that some dials were already printed, but not lumed, so Rolex decided to add the underline to existing pieces to note that they were different. Bubblebacks, two-register chronographs, and Datejusts were the brand's core offerings. Why This Watch Matters This watch has all the elements of a classic diver from the halcyon days of mid-century sport diving, in an attractive and well-aged package. It's worth noting that the earliest Sea-Dwellers, which featured a date from the beginning, came out two years earlier too. So, the watch in question is from 2016, so why dig in now? The example above has faded to a beautiful dark shade of tropical brown, while the example below is still inky black – again, these watches were born identical but have become extremely different in their 60+ years of life. These watches feature the COMEX logo on the dial, just above the depth rating and "Submariner" signature at six o'clock, filling up the bottom portion of the dial. However, with its rich history and very wearable look, the Explorer is a Rolex watch that shouldn’t be overlooked. Keep in mind, we're talking about just over a decade between the earliest 6200 and the last Explorer dial 5513, which really drives home how quickly the Submariner was evolving during this period. By partnering directly with the brands we carry, we guarantee 100% authenticity of everything we sell. The word "Submariner" is back on the dial at six o'clock and finally we've got the distinctive Mercedes hour hand and a seconds hand with a straight tip after the lollipop. to see what was in market when and what it would have looked like in new, original condition. After World War I, the company moved its base of operations to … It's not delicate, it feels current and thoughtful, and it is a great size on my 7-inch wrist. The helium escape valve on the reference 16660 Sea-Dweller. They were, in many ways, the very best kind of tool watches from the get-go. Celebrating over 55 years in business, Bernie Robbins Jewelers is a purveyor of the region's very best engagement rings, bridal jewelry, fashion jewelry, and fine timepieces. 01.09.2020 - Entdecke die Pinnwand „Rolex“ von Watchtime.net. (Photos: Courtesy Christie's). In many cases, watches were modified after being decommissioned and aren't quite what they used to be. This return to lumed markers is the first time since 1989 (when the 1016 was phased out) that the Explorer offered luminous execution for all of its hour markers. The exception would be private purchase watches: Submariners bought be serving military personnel at the NAAFI (Commissary) for their own use. Our Take This book offers an excellent overview into Rolex history, showing how its defining principle ensured its continuous success for a century. The Explorer’s official story famously takes shape with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s pioneering ascent to Mount Everest in 1953. The introduction of the reference 5512 in 1959 marked the moment that the Rolex Submariner became more or less the watch we know today. The company is known for its long and innovative history, including the release of the Accutron – the world's first fully electronic … You'll find the occasional gilt dial without a chapter ring, but you shouldn't ever see a matte dial with one. The earliest models were based on Rolex Bubblebacks and there were several early Oyster models that said "Explorer" on the dial (though, you'll notice, the 6098 taken to the peak of Everest did not). The earliest iterations of the 1680 feature red "Submariner" text in the four-line signature at six o'clock, giving the watch its common nickname: The Red Sub. The best guess is that it was in development earlier but Rolex decided to hold it for some reason. The "Explorer" branding was registered in Geneva earlier that same year and the watches were prototyped specifically for this Summit bid. Why This Watch Matters This Rolex Oyster Royal is fitted in the company's signature water-tight screw-down case. It was the most robust automatic movement Rolex had at the time, with built in shock protection, making it the right fit for the fledgeling Submariner. With the 6536/1, Rolex also finally moved away from the bubbleback calibers, instead fitting the Submariner with slimmer movements. Regardless of the case size and shape, while the Explorer's dial has evolved, there is still an easy through line from early references like the 6150 to the modern 214270. A 1956 reference 6610 with a lovely gilt dial. While aesthetically very different from the Explorer, the Club is also not an example of NOMOS's core design (for that, consider the Tangente). But buying this watch with a view to upgrading it is false economy: genuine Rolex sword hands are worth $30,000+, a 60-minute-marker bezel $30,000+; and most – if not all – of these "add-ons" for sale in the market now are fake or after-market. White and silver dials turned to black, lume plots got much bigger and started standing in for applied hour markers, cases … This is because it sits halfway between a true vintage Submariner and the five-digit references that Rolex would start making around 1990. First off, we've got one of the very first matte dial Submariners. This is where Rolex really hit its stride with the Explorer, and indeed, many of their steel sport watches. There were also Explorer dial 5512s produced around the same time as these watches, and, curiously, most seemed to have been made for the UK market. From a movement standpoint, it's exactly what I'd want in an Explorer. While the genesis of the model is undoubtedly that original 6098, it would be a few more years and a few more references (including the 6150, the 6350, and a few oddballs like the Air-King Explorer 5500) before Rolex released the 6610 and established the format of the Explorer that we recognize today. 1) Gilt 5512 and 5513 Submariners are not rare by any stretch, but they are rare to find in great condition. Like with the JLC, the blue dial just sings, but in any version the dial and marker proportion is weird and charming and the BB36 wears so well on any wrist. Up first is the earliest version of this watch. While this watch has a red triangle in the bezel, there were 6536/1s with hash bezels and no red triangle too. After that, you'll only see much more common feet-first examples. Je nám ctí, že od roku 1996 jako první v postkomunistických zemích jsme mohli nabízet hodinky jedné z nejvýznamnějších hodinářských značek. Breaking News The Patek Philippe Ref. Another thing to note here is the President bracelet mounted on this watch. The second is the luminous material used on the dials. As the stories of the 5512 and 5513 weave in and out from one another, this is their last point of contact. Within the 6200 reference, there are two main variations, one with the small logo (above) and one with the large logo (below). Looking at the reference 6204, you can clearly tell that the watch is a Submariner, but a number of the key traits are slightly different. 11 months ago Jewelry & Diamonds; Uncategorized; Watch Brands. For starters, I was at HODINKEE HQ, seated at my desk, for all of four days before WFH began. While this had the end result of making the watches better on a consistent basis, it makes tracing the history a bit complicated. Rolex SA (/ ˈ r oʊ l ɛ k s /) is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer based in Geneva, Switzerland. For collectors today, the most basic taxonomy dividing Subs into two camps is probably gilt vs. matte, though as you can see here that's a wild oversimplification. The 1680 began its life as a matte dial Submariner, separating itself from its 5512 brother with the addition of a date function. take a look at this white dial version we highlighted at auction from Christie's back in 2013. As mentioned earlier, there are truly countless dial variants, nicknamed sub-references, and unusual historical side notes. added a solid gold version of its classic tool watch to the catalog. The 1520 ran at a slightly higher frequency of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph), but used a lower-cost regulator and balance spring, so with a bit of innovation came a bit of cost-savings. Born of a time where a watch needed little more than three hands, today's Explorer can trace its roots back to 1953 with a ground-breaking expedition to the world's highest peak. This is the first Submariner to feature the chronometer certification on the dial, and you'll notice the complexity of the color scheme on the gilt chapter ring dial – the model branding is all in gold while the other text is in a white/silver color. Updated in 2016, the modern 214270 Explorer is 39mm with an Oystersteel case and a black dial, the recognizable 3, 6, 9 markers (now with lume in them) and a refreshed handset that is both longer and a bit thicker. 6200, it's worth noting that it got a new caliber as well, the A296. After this numbering system stopped, serial number ranges become the best measure, though that is an imprecise science and Rolex does not confirm dates on vintage watches. Explorer ref. Another thing to look for with these is whether or not the bezel itself (not just the insert) is period-correct, with the coin-edge instead of the larger knurling – otherwise it could be an outright swap. While they offer ample protection in this form, they make it a bit hard to access the crown for setting the time. (Photo: Courtesy Phillips). Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, though it was originally located in the United Kingdom and called Wilsdorf & Davis. This is, however, another critical reference for no-date Subs: the 5513. The earliest versions (which featured bezels with red triangles at the 0/60 position) used the caliber 1530, while the version you see here introduced the caliber 1560. Rolex, you work in mysterious ways. Weitere Ideen zu rolex, uhren, luxus uhren. Make sure everything checks out before buying. The result of these updates make the so-called "MKII" 214270 Explorer (dubbed so due to the fact that Rolex updated the reference without changing its number) feel more balanced, a bit sportier, and overall more comfortable in its 39mm sizing. The steel Rolex market has never been hotter and I thought it might be interesting to look at a watch that is both actively at the creamy center of the Rolex design language and also one of the least expensive new Rolex sports models on the market. Why This Watch Matters This 1969 Rolex Explorer was one of the early matte dial reference 1016s, but it kept its superbly proportioned 36mm case. In a world of multi-tools and app stores, consider the elegance of a well-made pocket knife, a simple wallet, a carabiner, a ball cap, or even a humble pencil. The 6538 came in two basic flavors, those with four lines of text at six o'clock and those with two lines of text in that position. If you're looking to pick up a watch like this yourself, it's best to consult with a true expert first. Weitere Ideen zu uhren, rolex, uhr. Combined with the larger crown, this offered double the water resistance (200 meters) of earlier models. Combinations of these traits would result in the Explorer, the GMT-Master, the Milgauss, and more. Rolex S.A respects your right to privacy and is committed to maintaining your confidence and trust. For instance, the GMT Master reference 1675 is known for the caliber 1575, acrylic crystal, and matte dial. These movements rolled out slowly to various models, but if your 1680 hacks, you know it had to come after this date. There's one more critical point to make about the 5508: It's the very last Submariner made to feature a case with no crown guards on the right side of the case. The Explorer feels elemental, like the sort of watch you wear after you leave field HQ and venture out to where the map gets iffy. In terms of technical features, the movement was pretty similar to the A260 caliber, but it was a bit larger at 29.5mm (instead of 26.4mm), making it a better fit inside the larger big crown case. Back then, if you wanted the watch on this bracelet your retailer could special order it for you – you'll notice that the end links match up properly and everything here, so there's no funny business at all. Since it was never produced during the era of gilt dials, changing lume, and quick iterations on branding and logos, there are far fewer variations than you see with something like the 5512 or 5513. In many ways, that is the ethos of the Explorer. To my eyes, this 39mm Explorer and the current Daytona have the two best cases of any modern Rolex, with neither having been updated to the so-called "maxi" case shape common to other Rolex sport watches. I know Robert-Jan, Ben, and Rob all like the Explorer II a lot. How about you get hours, minutes, and seconds, and just be cool about it? There are three basic variants of the MilSub, the 5513 you see here, later 5513/5517 double-references, and also 5517 single references (these last two references only exists as MilSubs, not as regular Submariners). History; Contact; About. This reference started with a gilt, glossy dial, and towards late 1966, early 1967 the manufacture switched to a matte dial … Now we're getting into the weeds. The goal here was to make the watch even more legible. Now, over time, a lot of these dials and bezels faded to various shades of blue and purple, but this one is still looking rich and saturated like it was when new. The ref. These underline dials can be found across the Rolex sport watch range, and represent a transitional period in the company's history. Consequently, the first 5513 we have here is extremely similar watch to the third 5512 featured above since it was made at approximately the same time. One side note here: there are Bart Simpson 5512s too, though they're much rarer than the 5513 version. You think you're getting one thing, but you're actually getting something else entirely. Come 1972, the caliber would get upgraded again to have a hacking seconds mechanism, though the designation would remain 1570. It's a totally different feel to the smaller Submariners or those with crown guards, but it's also visually very different from the 6200 because of all the additional dial text. The former does not say "Submariner" at six o'clock, while the latter does. After approximately four years of production, the gilt dial 5512 would end up with the rounded crown guards that the majority of Subs feature (and that you can see on the matte 5512s and gilt 5513s below). Furthermore, the 214270 is a modern case study in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" thinking. Saved by HODINKEE. We said we wouldn't get too into the minutiae of various font and logo variations, since that's essentially a bottomless pit, with collectors and dealers giving new nicknames to watches on a daily basis in order to drum up interest or add value. This very first 5512 is something of a transitional watch, taking us from the no-crown-guards Subs through to the more contemporary crown-guards Subs. In 1969, Rolex (finally?) In fact, the watch was made from 1969 until 1973 and went through a few iterations or "Marks" during that time. It is also common to see these gilt dials re-lumed. The watch you see here is nearly identical to the last 5512 shown above, with a matte dial and a feet-first depth rating. This watch comes in 42MM with Orange hands and black dial. A 14270 on wrist, 36mm is tough, hard-wearing elegance. But it does offer an excellent alternative with similar charm. You can easily see the different in the two watches above, with the first being an early example and the second a very late one. Technically, this is a mark iii maxi dial, as there were multiple configurations, but there we go again getting a bit too far into the weeds... Ok, it's time for a pivot. This example is special in that it bears the Swiss retailer Bucherer’s signature on the dial. As we noted in Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller, the Rolex Submariner was among the very first dive watches on the market and it quickly became the most iconic. We more typically see it on 1960s gilt 5513 Subs, so when it appears with additional red depth reading on an early 6538 big crown, the iconic James Bond Submariner, you have the perfect storm of rarity of case and dial design. These earliest Explorer models were provided by Rolex for testing on the expedition that saw Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay conquer Mt. First off, it's only rated to 100 meters and features the smaller 6mm crown and the slightly slimmer case of the 6205. Other famous Rolex Explorer wearers include Prince Harry, Matt Damon, and Al Pacino. By Benjamin Clymer. So next time you're looking for that birth-year watch, know that you're shooting at something of a moving target. Combined with the very small 5.3mm crown, this watch is believed to have been water resistant to 100 meters, though there is one known early advertisement out there that claims a 200m depth rating. So, it's important to make sure that the dial in the watch is consistent with the serial number between the lugs and the year the watch was made. Basically the gold standard for an everyday bracelet, the Oyster bracelet has a three-link design, solid end-links, and a robust fold-over safety clasp with micro adjustment. In 1919, the company moved to Geneva, Switzerland, and changed its name to Rolex. 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